Kielo Wrap Dress

Hi everyone,

I have seen soooo many Keilo dresses in my research before making this dress, but I’m so pleased with my recent make, that I had to show it off.

The kielo wrap dress looks like it would be unshapely and has a really odd shape, however, due to the amazing long ties, which are cleverly concealed within the seams of the dress, it wraps exactly at the waist, taking the fabric around you and creating a lovely, flattering, silhouette.

The Kielo is made to be a maxi dress, however, I know for past experience, that I rarely end up wearing a full-length dress so I shortened it significantly to a knee-length dress. I found that due to the shape, it requires quite a lot of fabric but I did expect this. I bought some lovely, crackle look black jersey from Sewlicious and went ahead.

Picture of Metallic Bronze Gold Splashes on Black - Jersey Fabric

There are surprisingly few pieces to cut, just the front and back and the ties, though I cut the back in two pieces due to fabric restraints. I also included sleeves as I don’t like to not have sleeves. Named Clothing have released sleeves to go with this and I couldn’t be bothered printing them out but I used my familiar Moneta dress sleeves and it worked perfectly.

The dress calls for darts at the bust and the back. I have rarely sewed darts in jersey and found it a bit challenging to be honest but it was completed and I continued. I inserted the sleeves and everything else on the flat, which is my favourite way to sew and then you essentially sew up the sides. Easy. The neckline is simply folded and sewn as a hem.

When I make this again (there will be an again) I will lower the bust darts slightly and I would also lower and round-off the neckline but I love it. I cannot believe I left it this long to make it!

This was a good choice of fabric by the way, it feels really glamourous whilst still being a jersey and I love it!

IMG-20190106-WA0009.jpg

IMG-20190106-WA0007.jpg

IMG-20190106-WA0019.jpg

IMG-20190106-WA0006.jpg

IMG-20190106-WA0013.jpg

Me Made May Week 3

Day 1 – I made another shortened version of the Florence Dress last year, which has been a nightmare to photograph – it just seems that it has never worked out. I made it using a bed sheet so it gives it more structure, which is great for work. I do think the pattern lends itself to floaty fabrics more though.

Day 2 – Today I wore my gingham hacked Orla Dress, I love wearing this dress, it’s such a cool and relaxed style and after making a few, I’m really happy with the fit of these. It’s a free pattern by French Navy Now and I really recommend it.

Day 3 – I wore a previously unblogged, simple gathered skirt. This is my favourite way to make self-drafted skirt as you can add lots of volume and swish to a skirt. I am currently writing a tutorial for Sew Me Sunshine using their beautiful crepe on how to create your own.

Day 4 – This is my first repeat and I wore my Emma brushed jersey Moneta dress. This is my most recent Moneta and every time I make one, I’m reminded why this pattern is my favourite – it’s super flattering and comfy. I haven’t blogged this one, as there are only so many Monetas a girl can blog!

Day 5 – This was a slightly different make for me, I decided to test my hand embroidery skills slightly. Bees seem to be everywhere at the minute so I downloaded myself a Bee Happy template and embroidered it on to a ready to wear T-shirt. I tucked this in to a self-drafted skirt and it was a perfect, cheerful outfit for a Royal Wedding Street Party!

Day 6 – Another day, another Orla hack. This is a long sleeved version. I used to Orla bodice as a block and extended it and lowered the neckline and created two ties for a tie back detail. I forgot to take pictures so I pinched a couple from my holiday last year (I wish I could go back!)

Day 7 – I wore RTW to work. If I’m completely honest, my work wardrobe is definitely not 100% me made and as the last week of term approaches I’m struggling to wear me made everyday. I had family round for tea though and slipped on my original galaxy moneta.

Thoughts for this week: I don’t automatically wear Me Made every day, which is OK because I don’t want to get rid of anything just because, but there’s definitely still room for more me mades in my wardrobe. (yay!)

I need to make more work basics, which are smart and appropriate.

Maxi Appleton

Hi everyone,

Sorry I’ve been missing for a while, I’m extremely busy at the minute and when me and hubby have been stripping walls and garden sorting, I can’t bring myself to replace my scruffs for my lovely new makes and insist he takes photos!!!

The Appleton dress was made for me by the lovely Lhizz from New Zealand last year as part of the hand-made dress swap. As she didn’t feel the pattern would suit her, she kindly sent the pattern with the dress she had made and I have made it since for my sister’s baby shower last year.

As the pattern is tailored for curvy, chestier girls, I couldn’t leave it there as I feel it had a great fit and it’s super flattering. I have seen a few people hack the dress in to the a maxi, so I decide to do the same thing. I was also inspired by the Sew Together for Summer wrap dress challenge, which is always great for inspiration!

From making it before I know that it uses a lot of fabric and, in a very unlike me move, I decided that patterned fabric would be too much in a real shoulder to toe dress so I chose a plain, purple jersey for this make. My inner pattern lover struggled with this decision!!

The construction of the dress is a real joy (usually) – for some reason, I had lots of problems with this, the jersey is super stretchy (though I have worked with the same make before) and it just seemed that if it could pucker or snap or anything else to go wrong then it did. This was increased by the fact that there was so much fabric and it actually made it a bit more difficult to work with on the whole.

Anyway, due to my absolute frustration with this dress, I expected to get it on and hate it because it wasn’t really a pleasure to make in the end. However… I absolutely love it. This amazing pattern has done it again, I think it fits a treat (no gaping at all across the chest, which means no strategic safety pin!) and it is super flattering. I would really recommend this pattern for anyone who has a large pair of boobs to accommodate and for anyone who wants to up their jersey making game but still doesn’t want to deal with buttonholes or fastenings.

I’m not sure I can get away with another, but I’m thinking of making a sleeveless one (in a brighter print) for over my swimsuit – what do you think? Would that work?

Me Made May Week 2

Day 1 – I wore my Sew Over It Nancy Dress which I made last year and although I wasn’t entirely convinced with the shape, I still wear it often as its bright and fun and cheers me up (that and I needed a bit of a looser shape after an indulgent bank holiday weekend!)

Day 2- I wore my much worn Cotton and Chalk Rosie Dress. This was my first make in Ponte Roma and it has really stood the test if time.

Day 3 – Having felt a bit sluggish this week I decided to brighten myself up a little so I wore a green RTW t-shirt with a self-drafted skirt. The fabric is a vintage buy from my favourite shop up in Northumberland.

Day 4 – This is where Me Made May has stepped my game up a little and made me dive in my wardrobe. The is the Rebecca Page Arabella Skirt skit which I made last year and i have to admit, I haven’t worn it since. I love this retro tapes fabric from Flamingo fabrics and I really don’t know why I haven’t worn it much. Teamed with a RTW white blouse it was perfect for work and added a bit of colour to my day. This one is definitely being brought to the front of the wardrobe now!

Day 5- I wore two outfits today. I wore my hacked Datura blouse with RTW jeans to have my hair cut. (I haven’t blogged this but I love it!)

I then wore my Joni dress out for tea for my brother’s girlfriend’s birthday meal. I absolutely love this dress!!

Day 6- my husband and I had a drive out and I wore my super comfy Peak T-shirt which I made from Wendy Ward’s book Sewing with Knitted Fabrics for Minerva Crafts.

Day 7 – today I thought outside the box and wore my Style Arc Italia Shirt Dress which I made for Sew Me Sunshine, tucked in to a plan black self-drafted circle skirt.

Thoughts for this week:

  • I am still very much in need of blouses for work.
  • I wear too much blue!

Valentine and Stitch Angelina Experiment (and discount code!)

Valentine and Stitch are a new and upcoming, very reasonable PDF pattern company I have found through instagram, mainly through the Sleevefest challenge #sleevefest2017 which owner Helen and Diane of dream.cut.sew have ran this year. They have just brought out a new Cardigan pattern (perfect for the #cosycardichallange) so check it out.

She does a couple of fantastic  free patterns too like the Lotus but also the amazing Angelina pattern which definitely has sleeves to make an impact for Sleevefest; they are really full and make a real statement. There are several options, a dress or a top without sleeves or with shorter or three quarter length sleeves.

I mentioned on Instagram that I wasn’t sure about the Angelina as I wasn’t convinced about how a Full Bust Allowance (FBA) adaptation would work on a pattern for knit fabrics. I haven’t got a lot of experience with knits and whilst they stretch, which can allow for a bit of wiggle room, you don’t want it to stretch to that point where YOU (and everyone else for that matter) know it’s too small, especially across the bust.

Anyway, the very lovely Helen got in touch and asked me if I would do a bit of an experiment to try my usual FBA on the original pattern for the Angelina and also send detailed measurements over for them to make me a personalised version. This was so that they could see how their sizes fit ‘real people’ like me and my somewhat larger chest (not showing off here, just a fact of my life!!)  and to see if they can help us ladies to ‘cheat’ an FBA by giving sizes to grade up and down.

Of course, I agreed! It’s so important to me that my clothes fit me properly so any excuse to get involved in that side of things is something I’m always up for. Anyone who isn’t in to fitting and pattern drafting might find this blog post a bit heavy on the technical/construction side. Sorry!

Anyway, Helen and Rich (Helen’s right hand tech-man!) kindly sent me the original pattern which I used my usual FBA adaptation on. I follow a tutorial which came as an article within Sew Style, Stitch Your Size magazine, which I have because I featured in it!  The magazine is aimed at getting the fit right so there are lots of tutorials. Although there are many tutorials and suggestions available for FBA,  this is the one which works for me so I’ve stuck with it.

I did my FBA as usual and was pretty happy with it, I had managed to keep the subtle but necessary curve to the pattern and it looked pretty good. I cut the largest size which is an XL and closest to my measurements. This allowed me to get as close as I could to my waist measurement before adapting it.

I sent very comprehensive measurements over to Rich which included my waist, hips and back measurements (cue the hubby for help!) this was obviously a long process for Rich and I’m really grateful.

I then cut the version which Rich had made with my measurements and I found it to be very different. I hope that you can see in the pictures that there is a size difference between the original pattern which I adapted and the personalised pattern. The personlised pattern is obviously bigger, however, I was pleased to find that my adaptation curves in at the same place as the one made to my measurements (underneath). I was also pleased to see the curve of the arm hole was similar. I think it shows that the FBA works and that the pattern isn’t far from what I needed at all.

I did notice the the waistline is much higher up on the personalised version (probably due to giving all my back measurements and across my ribs) which is something that I probably lose by cutting the pattern width ways in order to do the adjustments. Although my adjustments have always worked for me previously, this has really made me think if I am getting the absolute best fit and I found this has been so useful to help me with that.

I think I also need to consider the fit at the back, another massive positive of giving so many measurements to Rich was that I was able to see the difference that my larger chest makes there too. I think for knit patterns pieces like this, I need to add more to the back too so that the pieces meet right at the sides. I must work out how to do this!

I learnt a lot about my fitting from doing this. In the meantime, I have a pattern which is prepared especially for me, which is awesome! I’m sure most pattern companies would love to offer this to us but it was clear that this is a very labour intensive process and not something which is easily done! However, I hope you agree that the fit of the personalised pattern is great, it doesn’t pull anywhere and it fits well all over. A massive thanks to Helen and Rich for allowing me to get involved in this and for putting so much time in. I love how much effort they are putting in to the fit of their patterns.

It has allowed Helen to see that their standard sizes aren’t far away from mine (in my attempt to represent a curvy girl) in terms of placement and helped her to further research standard sizes so that she can also go up to 2XL with her next pattern draft which I know would cater for me and many others out there and would help with grading up for not only FBA but curvier hips or bums!

The rest of the pattern was easy to construct and produces a cool and laid back style. The sleeves are almost one big circle, which are easy to insert and I used my new overlocker to finish the hems. They give a really full and drapey shape. It makes it stand out from a plain Tee or dress.

_20170919_080304

_20170919_080428

As a special treat for helping with this Helen is giving my readers 15% off the Angelina! The special code is : EMMA15 and it is valid until midnight BST on Wednesday 27th September. Thanks so much Helen! Enjoy!!
I chose a beautiful black Jersey with bright flowers from Flamingo Fabrics it’s lovely and stable, which means it was great to sew and doesn’t cling to me and it has a great deep colour. I’m so pleased with the shaping- for a jersey dress, it doesn’t cling and it skims me really well so no lumps and bumps. I’m looking forward to wearing this with tights and boots on my holiday next week!

 

DSC_1748DSC_1756DSC_1751DSC_1754_20170919_080029

Create a website or blog at WordPress.com

Up ↑

Sewstainability

A journey towards sustainable sewing

jess sews clothes

blogging my homemade wardrobe

Merrymaking Sewing

Adventures in learning to sew

Notes from the Sewing Room

Projects and thoughts from a little dining room in England

Petite Republic

five feet and under

craftandothercrazyplans

Trial and error-the best way to learn

The Zipper Foot

A beginners sewing journey, learning all the time along the way. Hoping to process into more complex patterns as time goes on.

Coastal Crochet

All things crochet inspired by coastal living...

Naomi Sews

All things sewing with Naomi

Adventures in unpicking with sewmyown

Developing my skills as a novice sewist and exploring my Dalek obsession

Redhead Thread

Adventures in sewing

Valentine & Stitch

Beautiful PDF sewing patterns

Jolirose

Sharing my love of all things French and my obsessions with sewing and knitting

Sewistella

Sewing, Seaside living

the curious kiwi

Happily immersed in sewing nerdyness…

Sew Pretty in Pink

Andie's sewing & crafting adventures in Toronto, Canada

Thats Sew Peachy

A little sewing blog by a little sewer...

Sewcialists

A Sewing Blog for Everyone

Sew in the Garden

When life gives you melons do an FBA.

Sew sleep deprived

Lesley blogging about her sewing projects

Emma and her Machine

Adventures in Sewing

The Renegade Seamstress

Refashions Beyond My Wildest Seams

Flowercat Designs

Sewing. Flowers. Cat.

Sewing instead

I would rather be...

Fox Hollies

Never underestimate the power of a woman with a sewing machine

Charlotte Sjöstrand

mes créations en français et en anglais- My creations in english and french

SewAndrew

here’s what I’m sewing...

Pocket for sweets

Musings on dressmaking

Wendy Ward

designer | writer | teacher | maker

not sew simple

one stitch at a time

swarm of chickadees

a sewing blog with a nonsense title

Zoe Sews

A blog about my sewing adventures

all my own work by ann

Sewing and textiles with Ann

Fa Sew La

My adventures in sewing a handmade wardrobe.

Doctor T Designs

Clothing, Costumes, and Crafts

craftysarahsews

Selfish sewing and creative adventures in Leicester

applebymakes

Stuff that our family has made

%d bloggers like this: