Puffin Kalle Shirt

Hi everyone,

Today, I showcase another Closet Case Patterns Kalle Shirt. This is my fourth version of this brilliantly reliable and casual pattern. I made very few changes to the pattern, as it’s a loose fit, you don’t have to worry too much about fitting and it works a treat. For my previous versions, see here, here and here.

I made the shirt version, which is super easy as it has grown on sleeves. I used the cuffs and the cropped collar. I cut the front shorter and the back long to give a high/low hem, which I really like the look of. To do this simply, I just overlock the sides and hem then when I sew the sides, I split it and turn the hem up in a neat curve. I used a full placket as, if I’m honest, I struggled to get the pop over placket perfect on previous versions.

Also, worth mentioning that if I made another, I would use an inverted pleat rather than an outward one as I have here, I just think it looks nicer.

I bought this cute puffin cotton from Sewing Quarter because I’ve wanted puffin fabric forever as they love just on the little Farne Islands across from where we stay in Northumberland!

The fabric was great to work with because it’s a nice, soft cotton and even better because the puffins face two ways so I didn’t have to worry to much about the direction I was cutting the fabric. I even made my own buttons with the little puffin heads, because, how could you not?!

I wore this in Northumberland, especially because it is meant to represent my holidays for me.

Collarful Coat



The thing I love most about sewing is that it is a never ending, learning process. There are always new skills to learn and you can always get better. The way I have learnt to sew is to continue to make garments or try techniques that I haven’t before.
With this in mind, I’ve made another coat. Not feeling so adventurous, I chose Simplicity 1067 which is a pretty simple pattern with only one closure. I’ve taken to researching patterns on instagram before I make them and many people who tried this pattern in fleece seemed to report that it felt very dressinggown-esque! So I went with a red tweed that I got from Ebay. I was really pleased with this as I wasn’t sure whether it would feel a little too upholstery but it’s quite light.



See the source image




Anyway, I went with View A, and opted for pockets but not a hood. The optional pockets and the front pieces come together first and then the back. The large collar is made using a big piece of facing, which I hand sewed in to place. In order to make the insides neat, I used Hong Kong seams on all the visible seams, using a black, floral bias binding to cover the edges of the fabric. I was worried that would make it feel a bit stiff but because the fabric has a little natural stiffness, it has worked out quite well. I used the bias on the edge of the facing and that nicely covered the insides of the collar. It needed quite a bit of pressing but I was really pleased with the how it neatly came together.













I inset the sleeves (still my least favourite job) but these worked out quite well, I think this was because there is a bit of natural give in the fabric. I then used bias binding on this seam as well. I topstitched the seam to the sleeve opening, which is not in the pattern but I think it looks quite nice.




The hem is created by sewing the facings to the front and then continuing the line which is created all the way round. It suggests hand sewing this and the sleeve hems but by this time I had spent a lot of time on this coat and ready to move on to new projects, I hemmed it with my machine. I sewed the little clasp in place and voila! She is complete. I absolutely love the style of this coat, it is roomy but stylishly so, the collar is such a statement which is so me and I’m so pleased with the colour. I can completely see how this would eaily feel like a dressing down so for anyone who feels they might try it, definitely stick to more structured fabrics.

I have literally not stopped wearing this since I made it, I absolutely love it, it’s so practical and so me. I love it when sewing plans come together to be exactly what was planned!

Named Clothing Stella Shirt

Hi everyone,

Last year, I was lucky enough to win a prize in dress week for Indie pattern month over on The Monthly Stitch. My prize was 3 PDF patterns from Named Clothing. This came at a fortunate time as along with their new book, Named Clothing are my new obsession. Their patterns are so innovative, really well thought-out and just a little bit different.

One of the patterns I chose was the Stella shirt and dress. It has an option for a shirt, with a really funky triangular collar and for a lovely floaty dress with elasticated waist. They have a raglan style sleeve with cuffs and a pussy bow collar option. I was keen to try this to continue to expan my skills with making shirts. I opted for the shirt version and used a really cool viscose style fabric I got from Ebay.

The pattern calls for a French seam along the sleeves, which come in two pieces and I continued this by completing French seams throughout the whole shirt. You complete the sleeves, then the raglan and complete the sleeve and side seams in one go. The front, placket is self-facing so super easy and luckily this fabric was super easy and crisp to press. I added the collar and the cuffs and it was complete, which is quite simple for a shirt top.
The collar was surprisingly simple to sew up in the end, though I do think it has turned out a little wonky somehow. The pattern calls for poppers but I opted for button holes and made self-covered buttons, which are one of my favourite things to make, as they’re super relaxing. I used blue poppers to make the fastenings on the cuffs.


My thoughts on the pattern; it’s another great, stylish and youthful pattern as I’ve come to expect from Named Clothing. However, for me, it slightly lacks shape and if I made it again I would add some darts and shaping. I’m also not overly keen on the folded cuff option and would complete pleats in the sleeves before adding the cuffs in the traditional way next time. I have not ruled out making a dress version though and my love for Named Clothing patterns remains!

Sade Blouse

Hi everyone,

This is my first make of the book that everyone is talking about, that is, of course, Breaking the Pattern by Named Clothing! I wanted to leisurely look through it and carefully select a project, however, I got immediately distracted by the first pattern I came to, which was the Sade Blouse. I got the book for Christmas, from my lovely brother and I did some research on the patterns. There are so many amazing versions already and if you are thinking about buying the book, DO IT! You will not be disappointed!

Anyway, The Sade Blouse is designed to have open sleeves and an open back with ties at the hems. It is obviously made for drape fabric and I dug out this gorgeous mandala style print that I got last year from My Fabrics. I carefully traced the pattern, I could tell from researching it that the blouse came quite short so I added 3 cm to the length. I think I would add even more If I made it again. I also completed a full bust allowance change to the front pattern piece, something I am so glad I took the time to do with this pattern. I thought that I might be outsized by the book but the biggest size does it for me as long as I FBA it would seem. 🙂 The pattern pieces are quite large and because they overlap, it uses quite a bit of fabric. I had a metre and a half of wide fabric and JUST fit it on.

It is a satisfying make, in that you prepare all the pattern pieces first, completing 1 cm hems on all the edges of the pattern pieces, then you tack these pieces together and complete the top as normal. It takes quite a bit of concentration not to twist pieces or get confused. I felt like I had lots of bits going on. The sleeves are inserted on the flat and then it is all sewn together with large hems for the sleeves and the hem. The neckline is finished with bias binding, which is a winner for me, as I am not a facing fan.

I finished my sleeves with black ribbon but chose to omit the tie from the bottom hem, as I didn’t think the shape would be flattering. If I make it again I would lengthen it further and would still omit the bottom tie. I have seen some makers use elastic in the sleeve hems and I think that’s a great idea!

I hope you like it and if you have the book – enjoy!

IMG_20190102_142125_263.jpg
IMG_20190104_214120_511.jpg

Heirloom Birthday Boy Quilt

Hi everyone,

What I am sharing today is the definition of a labour of love. I don’t usually hand-embroider much, possibly because that quick satisfaction of the whir of my sewing machine cannot really be beaten but when I inherited my Nana’s embroidery threads in February, I decided I wanted to use them on something meaningful.

To do this, I decided to make a quilt for my nephew. I bought an alphabet quilt topper template and began with enthusiasm… then life took over, I worked lots, we moved house, went on holiday and the quilt remained 4 letters in for about 3 months. I picked it up again in September and I pretty much worked on it until about 3 days before my gorgeous nephew’s birthday! I wish I could say, “oh, this… this was easy”. But that would be a LIE! It was a long process but I knew that Ollie and his Mummy and Daddy would absolutely love it and this kept me going. It wasn’t all bad, of course, I sat in front of the TV mostly and worked away at it and the fact that they are individual letters meant I felt like I was doing it step by step, rather than one big picture.

_20181209_181848.JPG

The colours of the threads are so bright and pretty and the images are childlike and just perfect for the occasion. I added his name to the middle and then backed it with an iron-on wadding. The quilting lines between were then added by hand too. I was tempted to do this by machine but the pattern is designed to overlap the lines sometimes so I sewed this by hand too.

I then backed it in a lovely bright blue by sewing them right sides together, trimming it, turning out and then hand sewing the hole shut. I then ironed on my little “made by Autnie Emma” label, which my niece designed on the Dutch Label Shop.

_20181209_181828.JPG
DSC_0003.JPG

It was so well received and totally worth it, my sister absolutely loved it and I know it will be an heirloom forever, which will carry a little bit of my Nana with it.

_20181209_182017.JPG
_20181209_181951.JPG
_20181209_181908.JPG
_20181209_181934.JPG
_20181209_182142.JPG

Until I get another bright idea like this, I will definitely be sticking to machine sewing!

Kielo Wrap Dress

Hi everyone,

I have seen soooo many Keilo dresses in my research before making this dress, but I’m so pleased with my recent make, that I had to show it off.

The kielo wrap dress looks like it would be unshapely and has a really odd shape, however, due to the amazing long ties, which are cleverly concealed within the seams of the dress, it wraps exactly at the waist, taking the fabric around you and creating a lovely, flattering, silhouette.

The Kielo is made to be a maxi dress, however, I know for past experience, that I rarely end up wearing a full-length dress so I shortened it significantly to a knee-length dress. I found that due to the shape, it requires quite a lot of fabric but I did expect this. I bought some lovely, crackle look black jersey from Sewlicious and went ahead.

Picture of Metallic Bronze Gold Splashes on Black - Jersey Fabric

There are surprisingly few pieces to cut, just the front and back and the ties, though I cut the back in two pieces due to fabric restraints. I also included sleeves as I don’t like to not have sleeves. Named Clothing have released sleeves to go with this and I couldn’t be bothered printing them out but I used my familiar Moneta dress sleeves and it worked perfectly.

The dress calls for darts at the bust and the back. I have rarely sewed darts in jersey and found it a bit challenging to be honest but it was completed and I continued. I inserted the sleeves and everything else on the flat, which is my favourite way to sew and then you essentially sew up the sides. Easy. The neckline is simply folded and sewn as a hem.

When I make this again (there will be an again) I will lower the bust darts slightly and I would also lower and round-off the neckline but I love it. I cannot believe I left it this long to make it!

This was a good choice of fabric by the way, it feels really glamourous whilst still being a jersey and I love it!

IMG-20190106-WA0009.jpg

IMG-20190106-WA0007.jpg

IMG-20190106-WA0019.jpg

IMG-20190106-WA0006.jpg

IMG-20190106-WA0013.jpg

Tamsyn Top

Hi everyone,
On the advice and recommendations of the lovely people over on Instagram, I’ve decided to update with a blog post. I haven’t been writing more recently, for a few reasons; I wasn’t actually sure that people were reading them, I have actually remade quite a few garments recently and it seems silly to blog them again and I have also done quite a bit of Christmas sewing.

However, I have recently made the Tamsyn Top that was free with Simply Sewing Managzine in Issue 46, back in August. It would appear that, like me, many sewcialists look up Instagram and blog posts before they attempt patterns themselves and it seems that it is only fair that I give back.

Simply Sewing Tamsyn Top sewing pattern

On that note, the Tamsyn top is a simple, tunic style blouse with long sleeves and cuffs. There are no alternative options. I think the version on the packet is really nice and would love to replicate one like it. However, I had this lovely fabric called Ladies Faces from Sewalicious and wanted to use the simple lines of this pattern to show it off.

There are no darts and I was unsure about how to complete a Full Bust Allowance because of this but I lined it up with a pattern piece I knew fit me and it seemed OK. The body of the top comes together really easily… then it gets tricky, well not tricky, just more tricky than the simple tunic top would suggest, I feel. First of all, it requires set in sleeves. Eurgh, my nemesis… though, I think I’m getting better at that. Then you have to gather the bottoms of the sleeves to fit within a cuff, which creates a lovely, lose shape but is rather fiddly.

You complete an all-in-one collar for this blouse, which needed lots of clipping at the curves to sit nicely. It also makes the pattern quite fabric hungry as you have to cut it on quite a large curve and the sleeves are pretty meaty too! It was a complete fluke but I’m pleased that there are no faces in the pieces that I cut for this, as it wouldn’t look right.

The pattern gives the option for tassels, having never made tassels before, I tootled off to research this and easily followed this photo on Pinterest, incidentally, if you love a bit of Pinterest, follow me here. The tassles are simple tacked in before you make the collar.DIY Crafts :  How to make a yarn tassel

IMG-20190104-WA0023.jpg

IMG-20190104-WA0016.jpg

IMG-20190104-WA0026.jpg

IMG-20190104-WA0006.jpg

I’m really pleased with it, I think it’s a really relaxed fit, if not, a bit out there but it’s perfect with black jeans for a day exploring. I would make this blouse again, but only when I’m in the mood to try that collar.

Ness and Nora

I finally have my sewing room back and although I left a few projects and plans in my to-do box, in the said sewing room, I thought I would restart my sewing with an exciting new project and Tilly’s new patterns seemed ideal. I immediately fell in love with the Ness and didn’t think I would bother with the Nora top but as part of the launch, they were bundled together so I went with both.

I bought the patterns from Sew Me Sunshine along with a beautiful thick, striped jersey for the top. I then treated myself to a pink Cord from Sewalicious. I’m not usually a pink girl but I thought this Skirt would be fab in this colour and they would go really well together. I also bought a super cute little bee iron-on for the top.

Nora: this top is a super satisfying and quick make. I am so glad that I decided to go with it. I don’t work much with stripes so paying attention to the stripe matching, it still only took me about an hour of sewing time. Perfect for me. The sleeves are super easy to sew and a really relaxed style. I thought the style might be a little lose for me but I’m really pleased with the result.

 

 

I have since made another in waffle jersey from Sew Me Sunshine, which I’m in love with. I couldn’t resist a patch for this one either. I’ve been getting my patches from Koo Style and they’re a great way to brighten a garment!

IMG_20181209_113123_659.jpg

Ness: The Ness Skirt is a jean style skirt, which would work well in denim as well as cord. I love that the pattern comes with little tips, for example, it tells you to use a lower tension when sewing through cord and I really found this helped. As the skirt is like a traditional denim-style skirt, it has lots of jean-type elements in it. Such as the pockets, which I lined with this fabulous Beauty and The Beast fabric, I’ve been stashing. I also happened to be working on my pockets on the day that Tilly released the free coin pocket, so I added that too.

IMG_20181110_192502_529.jpg

dsc_0004_3.jpgdsc_0014_3.jpg

The fly zip comes with a very detailed and easy to follow video, thank goodness, as I thought it was tricky and definitely out of my comfort zone. I say this a lot but I love that there are always new skills to learn in sewing. Anyway, I’m quite pleased with the way it turned out and I would like to try it again at some point.

DSC_0011_3.JPG

DSC_0012_4.JPG

The waistband was pretty simple after this and I then added 5 little belt hooks, it is little details like this which I would usually leave out but I’m so glad I didn’t! I’ve enjoyed taking this skirt as a really slow sew and I have worked through it in stages.

DSC_0010_2.JPG

DSC_0032.JPG

I am so pleased with the way the two have gone together and I definitely think that Ness and Nora are a match made in heaven. What do you think?

DSC_0038.JPG
34,35,264,272.763611

IMG-20181209-WA0040.jpgIMG-20181209-WA0043.jpg

One Week One Pattern 2018

Hi everyone,

Sorry I haven’t posted in a while. You know how life is, super busy and mine is also currently filled with Christmas sewing!

Anyway, having not successfully taken part in a instagram, Sewing related challenge, I decided to give One Week One Pattern #owop18 a go. Originally a Tilly and the buttons venture, it has been valiantly ran by the lovely Sheona at Sewisfaction this year. The idea, of course, is that you make the most out of you patterns and wear the same pattern every day for a week.

I obviously turned to my trusty Moneta, which I have made several times as many of you will know. It turns out that I don’t actually have 7 though… So this was a perfect reason to sew a couple more! They are so quick.

Monday: I’ve used some Black Jersey from Pound Fabrics to whip an easy one up. I lowered the back neckline slightly and extended the sleeve length to full length. I pleated the fabric at once centimetre intervals instead of gathering, using a cheaper fabric as an excuse to experiment and it has worked brilliantly. Every girl needs a comfy black dress.

Tuesday: I wore my Paisley Moneta which I wear a lot. Now I’ve been sewing a while, it’s made me realise how long the clothes you make can last. I made this in summer 2017 and it’s still going strong.

Wednesday: I made this version last christmas. I used a block burgundy colour for the top and a ditzy, black Jersey for the bottom, which gives it a different look again and is a perfect stash buster.

Thursday: this was my second weekend owop make. I used another border print jersey from Ebay. I tried to use the border print to my advantage. I made the skirt much longer; it’s midcalf. I also extended the sleeve length, an easy but satisfying hack. I also lowered the neckline and used to strips to make a cris cross effect at the back.

Friday: This is my version in brushed Jersey, which is beautifully super soft from Sew Me Sunshine. This is the original pattern, with pockets.

Please see over on instagram for the daily updates.

Whilst I’m showing my Monetas, I though I would share a few tips from my experience. I always add an inch to the inside of the neckline because otherwise you end up showing your bra. I personally lengthen the bodice an inch so it doesn’t finish too low under my bust. I always overlock my neckline before I sew so that I can turn it under neatly.

I’ve loved watching everyone take part and feel really inspired by the way people have used the patterns they love in different ways. Thanks to Sheona for organising. If you want to see more Monetas, Amy also chose Monetas for their Owop.

Sunshine Rosie Dress

Today’s dress is another Cotton and Chalk Rosie Dress. This will be the third time I have made this dress and I don’t want to bore anyone but I also want to show off the sunshiny loveliness of this dress. It’s a super flattering pattern as it has a V-neck and a middle panel, which adds shape.

This and the last one I made are a far cry from my first one and I feel it really showcases how far I have come in terms of the fit of my garments. My first did not fit at all, it was badly made and I didn’t know how to change it. Fast forward 18 months and I’m able to change the fit of my garments so much more to fit me.

I decided to leave this one sleeveless, both due to fabric restrictions and the fact that I have to accept that I needed some sleeveless dresses in the warm weather for my holidays! I used this lovely yellow block print cotton from Sew Me Sunshine and because of the wide skirt, two metres was just enough to make it.

I did not make my own binding because I did not have enough fabric so I used some plain yellow in my stash. I love binding my necklines so I love a pattern which actually plans for it even more! I also used it to finish the arm holes.

I used clear elastic to gather the skirt, which is my favourite way to get lovely, even gathers, I have written a tutorial for this over on Sew Me Sunshine and I use bias binding to finish the hem to give neat finish.

I don’t make much in yellow but it’s beautiful and bright and I absolutely love it. Sorry for the holiday pictures but I thought it might brighten autumn up a bit as I definitely wouldn’t be wearing this now! 😔

By the way, my amazing necklace in a Jazzy Lapin design for Sewalicious. It’s amazing!

I’ll be there for you… For Sewing the Scene 2018

I love the #sewingthescene challenge which Jo (the unfinished seamstress) organises over on instagram. I think it is a brilliant way to be inspired. I find it really gets creativity going and I have a pinterest board dedicated to it, if anyone is interested.

I made an outfit inspired by Louisa Clarke from Me Before You last year and replicated it as closely as I could.

This year, I have used a bit more creative license as I was inspired by 90s Rachel Green from friends (the first series!) I knew what I wanted but it turns out that Rachel didn’t wear a dress like the one I have created but I would like to think that with all her tartan and pinafore wearing during the 90s, it could easily fit in her wardrobe (assuming she went up about 6 dress sizes of course!) I took these two elements and created my ideal pinafore dress.

I got some tartan from Ebay and used the Tilly and the buttons, cleo. I have made this twice previously and once for my brother’s girlfriend. It meant I could make some adjustments, to taper it in a little at my waist. I made it slightly longer than my previous versions too.

My favourite part of my Navy version is the big pocket so I added one to this, being careful to pattern match. I love sewing with squared fabric like this as it makes matching and hemming etc really easy. Anyway, the dress comes together super quickly. I added buttonholes and buttons instead of the pinafore fastenings and I was done.

I styled it with a black tee, black tights and ankle boots and my new Sewing Club pin badge from the gorgeous Sew in the Garden for a weekend trip to the garden centre. A Cleo is just perfect weekend wear!

Hubby always make me laugh!

recently went to Friendsfest with my sister and wish I could’ve wore this but it didn’t exist yet!! However, I am still happy that this would fit quite nicely in Central Perk!

Bedsheet fashion

Hi everyone,
Thank you so so much for all of your entries in to my bloggiversary giveaway. I had over 100 entries, which was really exciting! Anyway, the winner is @ceri.luna over on instagram. She wins 2 metres of Cotton Lawn from Sew Me Sunshine and pin badge from Pink Coat Club!
Now, this week’s blog post! Moving house has meant that I’ve had a bit of a Sewing stash cull. I’ve done quite a bit of clearing out and been quite firm with myself about what I will realistically make. It has made me be quite specific in my planning and I’m quite enjoying it.
Today’s make is Mccalls 7314, made with red and black checked brushed cotton, which was a bed sheet I bought from a charity shop (still in it’s packaging) and I knew I wanted a shirt dress straight away. It just looked so autumnal. The pattern has caught my eye quite a few times and although there’s quite a few indie companies with lovely shirt dresses, the fact that this was made for differing cup sizes did it for me. I could picture the kind of dress that I wanted and this was perfect.

Image result for mccalls 7314
I toiled the dress in a viscose and found that the darts and waistline sat way too high for me, so I have lengthened the bodice by about 3 inches. I made view D with the quarter length sleeves and cuffs. I included the pockets but made no other changes. It has a full collar and a really gathered skirt but quite a relaxed fit.
I’m really enjoying making some more complicated garments. I feel perfecting the collar and collar stand of shirts and shirt dresses is definitely a skill I need to keep working on. I have a few more shirt dresses in mind too as they are perfect for work.
I wore this to a Spice Girls exhibition in Manchester with my sister. I broke my personal fashion rule number 1 – “You should not wear tights if there is an R in the month” but it’s cold in England suddenly and this Autumnal dress definitely called for tights.

DSC_0694.JPG

DSC_0712.JPG

DSC_0714.JPG

DSC_0696-01.jpeg

DSC_0697.JPG

DSC_0695.JPG
34,35,233,241.966415

DSC_0687.JPG

IMG_20180829_170650_692.jpg

DSC_0711.JPG

Next week’s post is my Sewing the Scene entry, so look out for that!

Create a website or blog at WordPress.com

Up ↑

Sewstainability

A journey towards sustainable sewing

jess sews clothes

blogging my homemade wardrobe

Merrymaking Sewing

Adventures in learning to sew

Notes from the Sewing Room

Projects and thoughts from a little dining room in England

Petite Republic

five feet and under

craftandothercrazyplans

Trial and error-the best way to learn

The Zipper Foot

A beginners sewing journey, learning all the time along the way. Hoping to process into more complex patterns as time goes on.

Coastal Crochet

All things crochet inspired by coastal living...

Naomi Sews

All things sewing with Naomi

Adventures in unpicking with sewmyown

Developing my skills as a novice sewist and exploring my Dalek obsession

Redhead Thread

Adventures in sewing

Jolirose

Sharing my love of all things French and my obsessions with sewing and knitting

Sewistella

Sewing, Seaside living

the curious kiwi

Happily immersed in sewing nerdyness…

Sew Pretty in Pink

Andie's sewing & crafting adventures in Toronto, Canada

That's Sew Peachy

A little sewing blog by a little sewer...

Sewcialists

A Sewing Blog for Everyone

Sew in the Garden

When life gives you melons do an FBA.

Sew sleep deprived

Lesley blogging about her sewing projects

Emma and her Machine

Adventures in Sewing

The Renegade Seamstress

Refashions Beyond My Wildest Seams

Flowercat Designs

Sewing. Flowers. Cat.

Sewing instead

I would rather be...

Fox Hollies

Never underestimate the power of a woman with a sewing machine

Charlotte Sjöstrand

mes créations en français et en anglais- My creations in english and french

SewAndrew

here’s what I’m sewing...

Pocket for sweets

Musings on dressmaking

Wendy Ward

designer | writer | teacher | maker

not sew simple

one stitch at a time

swarm of chickadees

a sewing blog with a nonsense title

Zoe Sews

A blog about my sewing adventures

all my own work by ann

Sewing and textiles with Ann

Fa Sew La

My adventures in sewing a handmade wardrobe.

Doctor T Designs

Clothing, Costumes, and Crafts

craftysarahsews

Selfish sewing and creative adventures in Leicester

applebymakes

Stuff that our family has made

%d bloggers like this: