First of all, I’m sorry to anyone who found the Wanted Tee by Vanessa Pouzet as easy as most seem to have to construct – you don’t need to read this! For those who got as frustrated as I did – this is for you.
I don’t usually do tutorials as I don’t really feel qualified to do so but when I was looking for help with square neckline of the Wanted Tee, I found it seriously lacking, apart from this tutorial on matching stripes from Stitch My Style, which I was grateful for and it helped a lot but by this time I found myself nearly screaming, ‘Yes! But where do I stitch?’ at my screen. So I am endeavouring to make anyone who feels like me, feel a little bit better. It will talk you through steps 4 to 6.
The translation wasn’t that helpful to me in the end (I was definitely blinded by my confusion!) but it feels necessary to have when it’s going wrong -so, to save a job, here’s the translation, which my lovely friend who is a French teacher at school did for me. Though even she had to look up some of the specialist terms:
Step 4: This is a more delicate than complicated step, practice on a cotton non-stretch fabric. You will realise the right way to place the angle without wasting the fabric. Then you will not have difficulty in fabric which stretches.
1. Pin the bottom of the band to the front of the top, edge on edge with the fabric in the centre. Stretch it in to place. The corners of the strip must exceed 2 cm on each side. Stitch the seam line to 1 cm, stopping exactly on the connection of the band (the corners).
2. Push the band and snip with scissors in to the two corners to the seam. It’s scary but you have to go to the sewing point. If you leave 1mm, this will do. It is necessary to open to angle completely to sew the next seam.
Step 5: The fabric will form a fold. Be careful not to sew it. Work on the wrong side of the fabric if you are more comfortable.
Pin the middle of the back of the band with the middle of the back. All you have to do is spread the tension on the rest of the neckline. Open the corners completely and pin the rest of the band. Push the out of the way so as not to stitch it. It is possible to work on the reverse in order to control the fold. Stitch all the rest of the seam by 1cm. Press the seam.
Step 6: Fold the rest of the band on the back of the t-shirt. Overlap the three layers of thickness together to the closest seam. Overlooking or zig-zag and trim the excess fabric. Lay the seams towards the outside. Press the seam allowances to the inside. Optional: top stitch the seam.
Hopefully this was all you needed but in addition, here’s a little walk-through to attach the neckband, which I found the most tricky. It’s step 4 to 6 on the pattern instructions. I refer to the top, which is the front bodice piece and the band, which is the facings already prepared throughout. Excuse the glue on my work-bench – it’s a well used craft station!
Step 4: To pin the front band, place the top face up and the band face down. Pin it in place and marked a cm in to the top from both ends (shown by blue dots) . Your stitch-line should end dead on the open diagonal seam. Essentially from one pointy finger to the other in the picture!
You should a stitch 1 cm seam allowance from the edge of the neckline. Attaching the open band to the neckline.
You then snip into the the corner of the neckline to the end of the stitching on the band as close as you can. (along the line drawn in red but on the top ONLY – not in to the band.)
Step 5: Then turn the band upwards and pin along the edges of the neckline in the same way as the front piece, starting from the middle point of both the band and the top and easy the fabric round. The corners should look as they do in the picture below.
Start the stitching again at the point where the stitch-line you just completed ends, all the way round to the other point.
The band will then look like this from the inside.
Step 6: You then fold the band inwards and pin the two layers of the band piece together with the neckline of the top (the one centimetre seam allowance). Sandwich them together and then zig zag or overlock them together. This should be separate from the rest of the top. Trim any excess.
Press your seams, it should look really neat and that is the neckband done. Turn it out and it should look like this. Don’t think I’m showing off, I’m surprised with myself that it turned out so neat!
The rest should be straight forward. I hope this has helped anyone who needed it. If you have any questions, please let me know and I’ll try to help, though I do not claim to be a professional, otherwise it may not have confused me in the first place!! **please note, she also includes a bias way to finish the neckline but I’m not even going there!!
I love the pattern in the end, it is as flattering as promised and I will definitely make it again. I hope you enjoy it as much as me.
Here’s the finished item!! I submitted it for Indie Pattern Month under the second category of ‘New to Me’ as I have obviously never made a Vanessa Pouzet pattern before. I find challenges like this are what has helped me to improve all along so I’m always pleased to learn. You’ll see more pictures here.