Puffin Kalle Shirt

Hi everyone,

Today, I showcase another Closet Case Patterns Kalle Shirt. This is my fourth version of this brilliantly reliable and casual pattern. I made very few changes to the pattern, as it’s a loose fit, you don’t have to worry too much about fitting and it works a treat. For my previous versions, see here, here and here.

I made the shirt version, which is super easy as it has grown on sleeves. I used the cuffs and the cropped collar. I cut the front shorter and the back long to give a high/low hem, which I really like the look of. To do this simply, I just overlock the sides and hem then when I sew the sides, I split it and turn the hem up in a neat curve. I used a full placket as, if I’m honest, I struggled to get the pop over placket perfect on previous versions.

Also, worth mentioning that if I made another, I would use an inverted pleat rather than an outward one as I have here, I just think it looks nicer.

I bought this cute puffin cotton from Sewing Quarter because I’ve wanted puffin fabric forever as they love just on the little Farne Islands across from where we stay in Northumberland!

The fabric was great to work with because it’s a nice, soft cotton and even better because the puffins face two ways so I didn’t have to worry to much about the direction I was cutting the fabric. I even made my own buttons with the little puffin heads, because, how could you not?!

I wore this in Northumberland, especially because it is meant to represent my holidays for me.

March 16, 2019 6

Helmi Tunic Dress

Hi everyone,

I am on a bit of a Named Clothing spurt at the minute, the combination of winning 3 of their patterns and their new book means that I have lots to chose from and for a European pattern company, the patterns fit me surprisingly well and aside for my usual FBA, they are brilliant to work with.

I decided the make the Helmi, which is one of the patterns I chose when I won a prize in the Indie Pattern Month last year! I have seen quite a few people make it and it looked like a reliable and wearable tunic. With this in mind, I bought this fabric from SeaSalt fabrics in the sale. I have to say that I was so disappointed with this fabric, considering their fabrics are quite expensive, the weave is really loose, it catches very easily, (it was a nightmare to unpick), the drape isn’t brilliant and it just doesn’t feel very substantial. I think if I would have paid full price for this, I would have been very disappointed.

https://www.namedclothing.com/shop/helmi-tunic-dress/

Anyway, I’d already got excited and cut it so this is where I was at. I chose the make the long tunic option, omitting the fussy sleeves and full collar, as they usually feel too dressy. I completed an FBA and went ahead and cut the fabric. I had to cut the back piece in two pieces due to fabric limitations but that doesn’t really bother me.

The pattern comes with a hidden button placket, I have never completed one of these before and I am so proud of it. I sat and looked at that for a few days! Then I inserted my sleeves, trying out a method of inserting set-in sleeves on the flat, which worked a treated. I then insrted the collar, I don’t feel like this is my best work, it seemed a bit narrow and I think if I make this again I would either go with the full collar or extend the pattern piece a little. The skirt is easy to run up and then you just attached the bodice and skirt. There are no darts or gathering, which gives quite a lose and casual feel. I usually try to accenuate my waist a little so this was a bit outside of my comfort zone, but I still like it. I think when I make it again I would attach some little ties or maybe even add some darts at the waist and the top of the skirt.

Anyway, overall, I’m please with my make, I hope the fabric lasts as I can see it becoming a quick-to-throw-on item!

March 9, 2019 6

Collarful Coat

The thing I love most about sewing is that it is a never ending, learning process. There are always new skills to learn and you can always get better. The way I have learnt to sew is to continue to make garments or try techniques that I haven’t before.
With this in mind, I’ve made another coat. Not feeling so adventurous, I chose Simplicity 1067 which is a pretty simple pattern with only one closure. I’ve taken to researching patterns on instagram before I make them and many people who tried this pattern in fleece seemed to report that it felt very dressinggown-esque! So I went with a red tweed that I got from Ebay. I was really pleased with this as I wasn’t sure whether it would feel a little too upholstery but it’s quite light.

Anyway, I went with View A, and opted for pockets but not a hood. The optional pockets and the front pieces come together first and then the back. The large collar is made using a big piece of facing, which I hand sewed in to place. In order to make the insides neat, I used Hong Kong seams on all the visible seams, using a black, floral bias binding to cover the edges of the fabric. I was worried that would make it feel a bit stiff but because the fabric has a little natural stiffness, it has worked out quite well. I used the bias on the edge of the facing and that nicely covered the insides of the collar. It needed quite a bit of pressing but I was really pleased with the how it neatly came together.

I inset the sleeves (still my least favourite job) but these worked out quite well, I think this was because there is a bit of natural give in the fabric. I then used bias binding on this seam as well. I topstitched the seam to the sleeve opening, which is not in the pattern but I think it looks quite nice.

The hem is created by sewing the facings to the front and then continuing the line which is created all the way round. It suggests hand sewing this and the sleeve hems but by this time I had spent a lot of time on this coat and ready to move on to new projects, I hemmed it with my machine. I sewed the little clasp in place and voila! She is complete. I absolutely love the style of this coat, it is roomy but stylishly so, the collar is such a statement which is so me and I’m so pleased with the colour. I can completely see how this would eaily feel like a dressing down so for anyone who feels they might try it, definitely stick to more structured fabrics.

I have literally not stopped wearing this since I made it, I absolutely love it, it’s so practical and so me. I love it when sewing plans come together to be exactly what was planned!

February 22, 2019 8

Named Clothing Stella Shirt

Hi everyone,

Last year, I was lucky enough to win a prize in dress week for Indie pattern month over on The Monthly Stitch. My prize was 3 PDF patterns from Named Clothing. This came at a fortunate time as along with their new book, Named Clothing are my new obsession. Their patterns are so innovative, really well thought-out and just a little bit different.

One of the patterns I chose was the Stella shirt and dress. It has an option for a shirt, with a really funky triangular collar and for a lovely floaty dress with elasticated waist. They have a raglan style sleeve with cuffs and a pussy bow collar option. I was keen to try this to continue to expan my skills with making shirts. I opted for the shirt version and used a really cool viscose style fabric I got from Ebay.

The pattern calls for a French seam along the sleeves, which come in two pieces and I continued this by completing French seams throughout the whole shirt. You complete the sleeves, then the raglan and complete the sleeve and side seams in one go. The front, placket is self-facing so super easy and luckily this fabric was super easy and crisp to press. I added the collar and the cuffs and it was complete, which is quite simple for a shirt top.
The collar was surprisingly simple to sew up in the end, though I do think it has turned out a little wonky somehow. The pattern calls for poppers but I opted for button holes and made self-covered buttons, which are one of my favourite things to make, as they’re super relaxing. I used blue poppers to make the fastenings on the cuffs.

My thoughts on the pattern; it’s another great, stylish and youthful pattern as I’ve come to expect from Named Clothing. However, for me, it slightly lacks shape and if I made it again I would add some darts and shaping. I’m also not overly keen on the folded cuff option and would complete pleats in the sleeves before adding the cuffs in the traditional way next time.

I have not ruled out making a dress version though and my love for Named Clothing patterns remains!

February 9, 2019 0

Sade Blouse

Hi everyone,

This is my first make of the book that everyone is talking about, that is, of course, Breaking the Pattern by Named Clothing! I wanted to leisurely look through it and carefully select a project, however, I got immediately distracted by the first pattern I came to, which was the Sade Blouse. I got the book for Christmas, from my lovely brother and I did some research on the patterns. There are so many amazing versions already and if you are thinking about buying the book, DO IT! You will not be disappointed!

Anyway, The Sade Blouse is designed to have open sleeves and an open back with ties at the hems. It is obviously made for drape fabric and I dug out this gorgeous mandala style print that I got last year from My Fabrics. I carefully traced the pattern, I could tell from researching it that the blouse came quite short so I added 3 cm to the length. I think I would add even more If I made it again. I also completed a full bust allowance change to the front pattern piece, something I am so glad I took the time to do with this pattern. I thought that I might be outsized by the book but the biggest size does it for me as long as I FBA it would seem. 🙂 The pattern pieces are quite large and because they overlap, it uses quite a bit of fabric. I had a metre and a half of wide fabric and JUST fit it on.

It is a satisfying make, in that you prepare all the pattern pieces first, completing 1 cm hems on all the edges of the pattern pieces, then you tack these pieces together and complete the top as normal. It takes quite a bit of concentration not to twist pieces or get confused. I felt like I had lots of bits going on. The sleeves are inserted on the flat and then it is all sewn together with large hems for the sleeves and the hem. The neckline is finished with bias binding, which is a winner for me, as I am not a facing fan.

I finished my sleeves with black ribbon but chose to omit the tie from the bottom hem, as I didn’t think the shape would be flattering. If I make it again I would lengthen it further and would still omit the bottom tie. I have seen some makers use elastic in the sleeve hems and I think that’s a great idea!

I hope you like it and if you have the book – enjoy!

February 1, 2019 4

Heirloom Birthday Boy Quilt

Hi everyone,

What I am sharing today is the definition of a labour of love. I don’t usually hand-embroider much, possibly because that quick satisfaction of the whir of my sewing machine cannot really be beaten but when I inherited my Nana’s embroidery threads in February, I decided I wanted to use them on something meaningful.

To do this, I decided to make a quilt for my nephew. I bought an alphabet quilt topper template and began with enthusiasm… then life took over, I worked lots, we moved house, went on holiday and the quilt remained 4 letters in for about 3 months. I picked it up again in September and I pretty much worked on it until about 3 days before my gorgeous nephew’s birthday! I wish I could say, “oh, this… this was easy”. But that would be a LIE! It was a long process but I knew that Ollie and his Mummy and Daddy would absolutely love it and this kept me going. It wasn’t all bad, of course, I sat in front of the TV mostly and worked away at it and the fact that they are individual letters meant I felt like I was doing it step by step, rather than one big picture.

The colours of the threads are so bright and pretty and the images are childlike and just perfect for the occasion. I added his name to the middle and then backed it with an iron-on wadding. The quilting lines between were then added by hand too. I was tempted to do this by machine but the pattern is designed to overlap the lines sometimes so I sewed this by hand too.

I then backed it in a lovely bright blue by sewing them right sides together, trimming it, turning out and then hand sewing the hole shut. I then ironed on my little “made by Autnie Emma” label, which my niece designed on the Dutch Label Shop.

It was so well received and totally worth it, my sister absolutely loved it and I know it will be an heirloom forever, which will carry a little bit of my Nana with it.

Until I get another bright idea like this, I will definitely be sticking to machine sewing!

January 27, 2019 2

Kielo Wrap Dress

Hi everyone,

I have seen soooo many Keilo dresses in my research before making this dress, but I’m so pleased with my recent make, that I had to show it off.

The kielo wrap dress looks like it would be unshapely and has a really odd shape, however, due to the amazing long ties, which are cleverly concealed within the seams of the dress, it wraps exactly at the waist, taking the fabric around you and creating a lovely, flattering, silhouette.

The Kielo is made to be a maxi dress, however, I know for past experience, that I rarely end up wearing a full-length dress so I shortened it significantly to a knee-length dress. I found that due to the shape, it requires quite a lot of fabric but I did expect this. I bought some lovely, crackle look black jersey from Sewlicious and went ahead.

There are surprisingly few pieces to cut, just the front and back and the ties, though I cut the back in two pieces due to fabric restraints. I also included sleeves as I don’t like to not have sleeves. Named Clothing have released sleeves to go with this ~~and I couldn’t be bothered printing them out~~ but I used my familiar Moneta dress sleeves and it worked perfectly.

The dress calls for darts at the bust and the back. I have rarely sewed darts in jersey and found it a bit challenging to be honest but it was completed and I continued. I inserted the sleeves and everything else on the flat, which is my favourite way to sew and then you essentially sew up the sides. Easy. The neckline is simply folded and sewn as a hem.

When I make this again (there will be an again) I will lower the bust darts slightly and I would also lower and round-off the neckline but I love it. I cannot believe I left it this long to make it!

This was a good choice of fabric by the way, it feels really glamourous whilst still being a jersey and I love it!

January 11, 2019 9

Tamsyn Top

Hi everyone,
On the advice and recommendations of the lovely people over on Instagram, I’ve decided to update with a blog post. I haven’t been writing more recently, for a few reasons; I wasn’t actually sure that people were reading them, I have actually remade quite a few garments recently and it seems silly to blog them again and I have also done quite a bit of Christmas sewing.

However, I have recently made the Tamsyn Top that was free with Simply Sewing Managzine in Issue 46, back in August. It would appear that, like me, many sewcialists look up Instagram and blog posts before they attempt patterns themselves and it seems that it is only fair that I give back.

On that note, the Tamsyn top is a simple, tunic style blouse with long sleeves and cuffs. There are no alternative options. I think the version on the packet is really nice and would love to replicate one like it. However, I had this lovely fabric called Ladies Faces from Sewalicious and wanted to use the simple lines of this pattern to show it off.

There are no darts and I was unsure about how to complete a Full Bust Allowance because of this but I lined it up with a pattern piece I knew fit me and it seemed OK. The body of the top comes together really easily… then it gets tricky, well not tricky, just more tricky than the simple tunic top would suggest, I feel. First of all, it requires set in sleeves. Eurgh, my nemesis… though, I think I’m getting better at that. Then you have to gather the bottoms of the sleeves to fit within a cuff, which creates a lovely, lose shape but is rather fiddly.

You complete an all-in-one collar for this blouse, which needed lots of clipping at the curves to sit nicely. It also makes the pattern quite fabric hungry as you have to cut it on quite a large curve and the sleeves are pretty meaty too! It was a complete fluke but I’m pleased that there are no faces in the pieces that I cut for this, as it wouldn’t look right.

The pattern gives the option for tassels, having never made tassels before, I tootled off to research this and easily followed this photo on Pinterest, incidentally, if you love a bit of Pinterest, follow me here. The tassles are simple tacked in before you make the collar.

I’m really pleased with it, I think it’s a really relaxed fit, if not, a bit out there but it’s perfect with black jeans for a day exploring. I would make this blouse again, but only when I’m in the mood to try that collar.

January 8, 2019 12

Ness and Nora

I finally have my sewing room back and although I left a few projects and plans in my to-do box, in the said sewing room, I thought I would restart my sewing with an exciting new project and Tilly’s new patterns seemed ideal. I immediately fell in love with the Ness and didn’t think I would bother with the Nora top but as part of the launch, they were bundled together so I went with both.

I bought the patterns from Sew Me Sunshine along with a beautiful thick, striped jersey for the top. I then treated myself to a pink Cord from Sewalicious. I’m not usually a pink girl but I thought this Skirt would be fab in this colour and they would go really well together. I also bought a super cute little bee iron-on for the top.

Nora: this top is a super satisfying and quick make. I am so glad that I decided to go with it. I don’t work much with stripes so paying attention to the stripe matching, it still only took me about an hour of sewing time. Perfect for me. The sleeves are super easy to sew and a really relaxed style. I thought the style might be a little lose for me but I’m really pleased with the result.

31,30,353,370.397766

27,30,351,372.119751

I have since made another in waffle jersey from Sew Me Sunshine, which I’m in love with. I couldn’t resist a patch for this one either. I’ve been getting my patches from Koo Style and they’re a great way to brighten a garment!

Ness: The Ness Skirt is a jean style skirt, which would work well in denim as well as cord. I love that the pattern comes with little tips, for example, it tells you to use a lower tension when sewing through cord and I really found this helped. As the skirt is like a traditional denim-style skirt, it has lots of jean-type elements in it. Such as the pockets, which I lined with this fabulous Beauty and The Beast fabric, I’ve been stashing. I also happened to be working on my pockets on the day that Tilly released the free coin pocket, so I added that too.

The fly zip comes with a very detailed and easy to follow video, thank goodness, as I thought it was tricky and definitely out of my comfort zone. I say this a lot but I love that there are always new skills to learn in sewing. Anyway, I’m quite pleased with the way it turned out and I would like to try it again at some point.

The waistband was pretty simple after this and I then added 5 little belt hooks, it is little details like this which I would usually leave out but I’m so glad I didn’t! I’ve enjoyed taking this skirt as a really slow sew and I have worked through it in stages.

I am so pleased with the way the two have gone together and I definitely think that Ness and Nora are a match made in heaven. What do you think?

December 9, 2018 5

Emma and her Machine

Puffin Kalle Shirt

Helmi Tunic Dress

Collarful Coat

Named Clothing Stella Shirt

Sade Blouse

Heirloom Birthday Boy Quilt

Kielo Wrap Dress

Tamsyn Top

Ness and Nora

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